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Daily Life8 min readUpdated 2025-03-05

Food and Culture Shock: What Surprises British Expats in Argentina

Argentina isn't as foreign as you'd expect — until it is. Late dinners, the mate ritual, the kiss greeting, and why you should never pour mate for yourself first.

Thomas SinclairThomas SinclairWriter and editor · London
Food and Culture Shock: What Surprises British Expats in Argentina
The first time someone invited me to dinner at 10pm I assumed they were joking. They were not.

Argentina looks European enough — the architecture, the café culture, the love of football — that British expats often assume the cultural adjustment will be minimal. And in many ways it is. But the differences that catch you off guard tend to be subtle, daily-life things rather than dramatic cultural divides.

The Schedule Shock

This is the single biggest adjustment for most British people.

Meal times:

  • Breakfast: 7–9am (similar to UK — coffee, toast or medialunas)
  • Lunch: 1–2pm (the main meal of the day for many Argentines)
  • Merienda: 5–6pm (afternoon tea equivalent — coffee, cake, facturas)
  • Dinner: 9–11pm (this is the real shock)

Argentine dinner timing is not an exaggeration. If you book a restaurant for 8pm, you'll be eating alone. By 9:30pm the place starts filling. By 10:30pm it's full. Kitchen last orders might be midnight. On weekends, people go out for dinner at 10 or 11pm and might not leave the restaurant until 1am.

This extends to everything: clubs don't get going until 2am, parties that start at midnight are considered early, and children — yes, small children — are out with their parents at 10pm on a Saturday. It's not unusual to see toddlers at restaurants at 11pm.

For British people used to eating at 6:30 and being in bed by 10:30, this takes real adjustment. Most expats eventually compromise: they eat earlier than Argentines but later than they would in the UK, settling into a 8:30–9pm dinner routine.

Mate: The National Ritual

Mate (pronounced MAH-teh) has rules. Serious ones. The bitter green tea (yerba mate) is served in a gourd, sipped through a metal straw (bombilla), and shared communally — and if you get the etiquette wrong, people notice.

The rules (and they are real rules):

  • The cebador (server) prepares the mate and drinks the first one — always. This isn't selfishness, it's courtesy: the first mate is the bitterest
  • The gourd is passed around the circle. You drink the entire contents (don't sip half), then pass it back to the cebador
  • Don't touch the bombilla. Don't stir it, don't adjust it, don't blow on the mate. This disrupts the yerba
  • Say "gracias" when you've had enough — this signals you're done. Until you say it, the gourd keeps coming back to you
  • Don't add sugar unless offered — in Buenos Aires, mate amargo (bitter, no sugar) is the default
  • The water should be hot but never boiling (about 75–80°C) — boiling water scalds the yerba and ruins the taste

When you'll encounter mate:

  • Offices (it circulates at desks)
  • Parks (groups of friends on sunny days)
  • Family gatherings (constant)
  • Building sites (workers share mate on breaks)

Participating in mate is one of the fastest ways to build rapport. Declining is fine but people will notice. If you don't enjoy the taste (it's bitter and earthy — an acquired taste for many Brits), a simple "no, gracias" is perfectly acceptable.

The Kiss Greeting

In Argentina, everyone greets with a single kiss on the right cheek. Everyone. Male friends, female colleagues, your accountant, someone you've just been introduced to at a party, your doctor.

The only exception is very formal first-meeting business contexts, where a handshake might be the initial greeting — but even then, by the second meeting you'll be kissing.

This takes most British people several weeks to stop feeling awkward about. The trick: go in confidently, right cheek to right cheek, make actual contact (not an air kiss — that reads as cold), and move on. It takes one second and nobody is thinking about it except you.

Asado Culture

Asado (Argentine barbecue) is not a casual weekend cookout — it's a cultural institution. When you're invited to an asado, understand what you're signing up for:

Timeline of a typical asado:

  • Arrive (usually an hour after the stated time)
  • Aperitivo: wine, Fernet con Coca, empanadas while the fire is getting going
  • The asador (grill master) starts the fire. This is a solo job. Do not offer to help unless invited.
  • Wait. The coals need to be perfect. This takes 1–2 hours. More wine, conversation.
  • Meat goes on: chorizo and morcilla (blood sausage) first, then ribs, asado de tira (short ribs), vacío (flank), entraña (skirt steak)
  • Eat. Slowly. In courses.
  • Sobremesa: the post-meal conversation that can last hours. This is considered the best part.

Total time: 4–7 hours. Do not plan anything for after an asado.

Asado etiquette:

  • Bring wine (Malbec is the safe choice) — never bring your own meat unless asked
  • The asador decides when meat is ready. Asking for your steak well-done is technically acceptable but will earn you looks
  • Salad exists at asados but is an afterthought
  • Saying "no" to more meat is a multi-round negotiation

Money Conversations

Argentines are surprisingly open about money — how much they earn, how much things cost, what they pay in rent. This feels invasive to many British people, where discussing salary is practically taboo. In Argentina, it's just information-sharing. The inflation situation means everyone is constantly calculating and comparing.

You'll be asked how much you pay in rent. You'll be told how much your neighbour's car cost. Someone you've just met will tell you their salary. It's not rude — it's Argentine.

Physical Proximity

Argentines stand closer during conversation, touch more during social interaction (arm touches, shoulder pats), and have a smaller personal space radius than British people. This isn't uncomfortable once you adjust, but the first few weeks can feel slightly intense if you're used to the British arm's-length conversational distance.

Bureaucracy as a Way of Life

Argentina runs on paperwork, queues, and trámites (administrative procedures). Getting anything done — a phone contract, a bank account, a rental agreement — involves multiple steps, multiple offices, and multiple queues. This is not inefficiency you can hack around — it's the system.

British survival strategies:

  • Always carry photocopies of your passport, DNI/CUIL, and proof of address
  • Ask "¿qué documentos necesito?" (what documents do I need?) before going to any office
  • Budget twice the time you think any administrative task will take
  • Learn the phrase "tengo turno" (I have an appointment) — most government offices now require advance bookings

The Positives That Catch You Off Guard

After listing the adjustments, it's worth noting the things that pleasantly surprise most British expats:

  • Warmth: Argentines are really warm and welcoming. Invitations to family events come quickly and are sincere
  • Safety of children: Kids play outside, walk to school, and have a freedom that's increasingly rare in the UK
  • Work-life balance: Despite economic stress, there's a cultural emphasis on enjoying life, spending time with family, and not being defined by your job
  • Beauty of Buenos Aires: The architecture, the trees, the café culture, the bookshops — it's a stunningly liveable city
  • Healthcare access: Getting a doctor's appointment within days (not weeks or months) is a revelation for anyone coming from NHS waiting lists

Frequently Asked Questions

What time do Argentines eat dinner?

Argentines typically eat dinner between 9pm and 11pm. Restaurants don't fill up until 9:30pm or later, and on weekends dinner might not start until 10 or 11pm. This is the single biggest daily-life adjustment for most British expats. Most settle into an 8:30–9pm routine, which is a compromise between British and Argentine timing.

What are the rules for drinking mate?

Mate is a communal ritual with specific etiquette: the cebador (server) prepares and drinks the first cup, then passes the gourd around. Drink all the water (don't leave half), don't touch or move the bombilla (metal straw), and say 'gracias' only when you've had enough — saying it means you're finished. The water should be hot but not boiling (75-80°C).

Do I need to speak Spanish to live in Argentina?

You can survive in Palermo and Recoleta with English — many people in the service industry speak some English. But living in Argentina long-term without Spanish means missing the culture, limiting your friendships, and making every bureaucratic interaction harder. Most expats reach conversational Spanish within 3–6 months with regular practice and classes.

Sources & Official Links

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