Is Argentina Safe? An Honest Guide for British Expats

Argentina does not have the violent crime profile of, say, parts of Brazil or Mexico. For context, Buenos Aires has a homicide rate of roughly 4–5 per 100,000 — lower than many US cities, though higher than the UK average of about 1 per 100,000. The everyday concern for British expats is not violent crime but opportunistic theft: phone snatching, pickpocketing, and the infamous motochorro (motorcycle-riding thieves who grab bags or phones at traffic lights).

Street Crime in Buenos Aires

The most common crime affecting foreigners is the motochorro snatch. It works like this: you're walking along a pavement using your phone, or sitting at a pavement café with your phone on the table, and someone on a motorbike swerves past and grabs it. It happens in seconds and there's essentially nothing you can do after the fact.

Prevention is everything:

• Keep your phone in an inside pocket, not your hand, when walking
• At cafés, keep your phone in your lap, not on the table
• In taxis, don't hold your phone near the open window
• Be especially alert in tourist-heavy areas: San Telmo, La Boca, Retiro, Microcentro
• When using Google Maps, memorise the next few turns rather than walking with the phone visible

Pickpocketing follows the usual European pattern — crowded markets, the Subte (metro) at rush hour, and tourist queues. Standard precautions apply: front pockets, zipped bags, nothing valuable in back pockets.

The Neighbourhood Safety Map

Buenos Aires neighbourhoods vary dramatically in safety. This matters when choosing where to live:

Generally safe (with normal precautions): Palermo (all sub-zones), Belgrano, Recoleta, Núñez, Villa Urquiza, Colegiales, Caballito

Fine by day, more caution after dark: San Telmo, Almagro, Villa Crespo, Barracas, Microcentro

Exercise real caution: La Boca (outside the tourist strip), Constitución, Retiro station area, Once, Flores at night

Avoid (especially as a visibly foreign person): Villa 31 (Retiro), Villa 1-11-14 (Flores), and other informal settlements unless you know someone local who's taking you

The safer neighbourhoods — Palermo, Belgrano, Recoleta — are where most British expats end up living, and for good reason. They feel broadly comparable to a large European city: you can walk home from a restaurant at 11pm without undue concern. Just stay alert.

Scams Targeting Foreigners

A few scams are common enough to be worth knowing about:

The mustard scam: Someone squirts ketchup, mustard, or similar on your jacket, then a helpful bystander appears to clean it off — while their partner rifles your bag or pockets. If something gets spilled on you, walk away before dealing with it.

The fake police officer: Someone shows a badge and asks to inspect your wallet or passport for "verification." Real police do not do wallet inspections on the street. Walk to a police station if you're unsure.

Fake currency: Argentina's high-denomination notes (2,000 and 10,000 peso bills) are sometimes counterfeited. Learn to recognise them — the security watermark and the feel of the paper. Avoid changing money with street cambios (the famous "arbolitos" on Florida Street) unless you're experienced.

Rental scams: Particularly on Craigslist or Facebook — properties listed that don't exist, requiring deposits before viewing. Always view in person and use established agencies or platforms like ZonaProp, Argenprop, or a reputable relocation agent.

Transport Safety

Taxis: Use radio taxis (with the roof light and company livery), not unmarked remises flagged from the street. Better yet, use apps: Uber, Cabify, and the city's own BA Taxi app all work well and provide a digital record.

Subte (metro): Generally safe during daytime hours. Peak rush hour is crowded enough for pickpockets. Line D (the Palermo-to-Microcentro route) is the one most used by expats. Late at night (after 10pm on weekdays, midnight on weekends), the stations thin out and the advice is to take a taxi instead.

Buses (colectivos): Buenos Aires has an superb bus network — over 150 routes. They're generally safe but confusing for newcomers. You need a SUBE card (a contactless transit card) to pay. Avoid the very back of the bus late at night.

Driving: Argentine driving is… assertive. Speed limits are treated as suggestions. If you're from the UK, the right-hand driving combined with the local driving culture takes adjustment. Most expats find they don't need a car in Buenos Aires — public transport plus taxis covers most needs.

Outside Buenos Aires

Crime rates drop significantly outside the capital. Cities like Mendoza, Córdoba, Bariloche, and smaller towns in the interior are generally very safe by Latin American standards. Rural Argentina (estancias, wine country, Patagonia) has extremely low crime rates — your main safety concern shifts to road quality and distances between petrol stations.

Protests and Political Demonstrations

Argentina has a strong tradition of political protest, and Buenos Aires sees regular marches and demonstrations, particularly around Plaza de Mayo and the Obelisco. These are almost always peaceful but can disrupt traffic and occasionally lead to road closures. The advice is simple: don't get caught up in a large demonstration as a bystander. Walk away, take a different route. The Subte and buses may be affected on protest days.

Medical Emergencies

In a genuine emergency, dial 107 for SAME (the city's ambulance service) or go directly to the nearest hospital emergency room — Argentine hospitals treat emergencies regardless of insurance or immigration status. Private hospitals (Sanatorio Güemes, Hospital Alemán, Hospital Británico) generally provide faster service if you have coverage.

What to Do If You're a Victim of Crime

• Report to the nearest comisaría (police station) — you'll need a denuncia (police report) for insurance claims
• Contact the British Embassy if your passport is stolen: +54 11 4808 2200
• Call your bank immediately if cards are taken
• If you're assaulted, go to a hospital first, then make the report

The hard truth: police recovery of stolen items (especially phones) is rare. The denuncia is primarily for your records and insurance.